Hong Kong Island
Central, Admiralty & the Mid-Levels
This was the original heart of colonial Hong Kong which housed many of the most important government and trading buildings. Today it retains its financial significance and now holds some of the most impressive skyscrapers found anywhere in the world. Although there are a few historic buildings such as government House and St. John’s Cathedral dotted around, they seem uncomfortably out of place, surrounded by the glass and metal towers that define Central and Admiralty.
Getting around this part of town can be a confusing business, with the quickest routes often running along raised walkways and through shopping malls, but fortunately there are plenty of signs to guide you. However, some of this district’s claustrophobia may be relieved when the land reclamation project currently underway is complete: a swathe of sea stretching from the Outlying Islands Ferry Pier across to Causeway Bay will soon be watery no more, but exactly what the land will be used for is a source of contention.
Although civil right groups want the area to provide an open-plan promenade offering a much-needed sense of space, commercial interests often seem to win out in Hong Kong.
As you ascend away from the narrow strip of coastal Central through the nightlife zone of Lan Kwai Fong, there is some respite from the skyscrapers, elevated walkways and congestion in the form of Hong Kong Park and the Zoological and Botanical Gardens.
To the west, the Mid-Levels has long been a favorite expat residence, and is now served by the world’s longest outdoor escalator, which stretches some 2,600 feet up the slope and takes 20 minutes. The Mid-Levels Escalator runs downwards from 6-10 am and upwards from 10:20 am-midnight. SKY’S THE LIMIT
The large population and lack of land in the British colony of Hong Kong led to land reclamation projects as early as the late 19th century and, once advances in architecture allowed buildings to reach skywards, Hong Kong focused on the vertical. Although there have been tall buildings in Hong Kong since the 1930s, the territory’s first real skyscraper, Jardine House, was built in 1973 and, though now dwarfed by surrounding buildings, its unique porthole windows make it stand out over three decades later.
Today there are so many tall buildings in Hong Kong that, to make their mark, new skyscrapers have to be significantly higher than their neighbors (the 1,362-ft IFC2 and Kowloon’s new International Commerce Centre for example) or feature eye-catching shapes. The Bank of China’s dagger like angles were perceived to illustrate the mainland’s attitude toward the returning colony!
Other buildings to look out for include the Sir Norman Foster-designed industrial-looking HSBC Building which features on some of the territory’s banknotes, the mirrored bulges of the Lippo Centre and the unmissable Center Building which blazes with color at night.
Until recently Kowloon was hindered in the race for the sky by restrictions placed on building height to allow aircraft to land at Kai Tak airport. But, with the completion of the new airport at Chek Lap Kok on Lantau, these have been lifted and there are now construction projects afoot that will see superskyscrapers extend to both sides of the harbor.
These days, all of the world’s great cities have tall buildings, but, despite fierce competition from Shanghai, Hong Kong continues to stretch for the sky.
♥ Zoological and Botanical Gardens, Albany Road, Central (_ 00852-2530-0154; daily 6 am-7 pm; free; Admiralty MTR, Exit B & C1). The Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical Gardens are on the northern slopes of Victoria Peak and provide a soothing break from the city below.
The extensive gardens were originally built in 1871 and are divided by Albany Road with an underground walkway joining the two sections. In the park you’ll find over 1,000 different plant species on show. The park is also home to a number of animals and birds, including orangutans, monkeys, a tree kangaroo and pink flamingos – whose sounds are very welcoming after the noise of car horns downtown.
♥ Hong Kong Park (daily 6 am-11 pm; Admiralty MTR, Exit C1). This large park is just east of the Botanical Gardens and makes a pleasant diversion from shopping at nearby Pacific Place mall. Inside the park you’ll find scenic gardens, a small lake, a children’s playground and, of most interest, ♥♥ the Edward Youde Aviary (daily 9 am-5 pm; free).
The aviary is discreetly housed under an arched swathe of mesh and its raised walkways allow you to traverse the tropical foliage, which is alive with the color of its 150 species of Southeast Asian birds. Birdspotters might also want to come to the park on Wednesday mornings as there are guided tours.
Also within Hong Kong Park you’ll find the Flagstaff House Museum of Teaware (Wed-Mon 10 am-5 pm, free), which is worth a visit as much for its architecture and history as its contents. See our Hong Kong Museum section.
Visiting:
Victoria Peak
West to Sheung Wan, Kennedy Town, Wanchai and Causeway Bay
South of the Island
Visiting Kowloon and the Harbour
Visiting the Outlying Islands: Lamma Island, Lantau, Cheung Chau Island
Visiting the New Territories (Part 1 and 2)
Hong Kong Festivals
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