Hong Kong Island
West to Sheung Wan &
KennedyTown
If you want to escape the mirror-clad monoliths of modernity, a trip west toward Sheung Wan can supply a more traditional feel and older buildings that still (just about) fit their surroundings. Hollywood Road was used to film scenes for the movie The World of Suzie Wong and also has the Man Mo Temple (see below) along with antique shops galore.
Back down toward the harbor, the Western Market is housed in a threestorey Edwardian-style building, although its renovated interior sells arts and crafts rather than food as it used to. Some of Hong Kong’s most interesting streets lie within a few minutes of SheungWan MTR station and, even if you’re not in the market for traditional herbal remedies, exotic animal parts or name stamps,Wing Lok Street andWanMa Lane make for an intriguing walk.
Farther west, the tram lines extend out to Kennedy Town and, while there’s little specific to see here, Mount Davis, which rises nearly 900 feet, is worth climbing for the views, and has one of Hong Kong’s best youth hostels.
♥♥ Man Mo Temple, 126 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan (daily 8 am-6 pm; free; Sheung Wan MTR, Exit A2).
Although not as grand as some temples in Hong Kong, the Man Mo Temple is one of the most atmospheric you’re likely to encounter here. It unites an unlikely pairing of gods, Man, the God of Literature and Civil Servants, and Mo, the God of War and Martial Arts.
It’s situated in a very traditional part of town and just the walk there is enough to transport you to a different era.
The streets outside sell religious items and inside you’ll see elaborately carved wooden chairs formerly used to transport the gods in processions, along with some of the longest incense coils in the territory, which can burn for up to three weeks! At the far end of the temple, you’ll find statues and altars to the two gods presiding over the temple.
Wanchai
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East of Admiralty, Wanchai was once home to brothels notorious among sailors and the area’s seedy ambience and charms form the setting for Richard Mason’s novel about a Wanchai prostitute, The World of Suzie Wong.
The book was later made into a movie, although much of this was actually shotaround Hollywood Road.
These days only an inkling of Wanchai’s former iniquity remains in the form of a few girlie bars which are outnumbered by a newer collection of pubs, clubs and restaurants, all set amidst the obligatory sea of skyscrapers. |
Wanchai’s Lee Tung Street
The most impressive of Wanchai’s buildings are near the harbor. The Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre at 1 Harbour Road resembles anything from a manta ray to lotus petals, depending on your perspective, and was where Hong Kong was formally returned to China in 1997. Outside the building, Golden Bauhinia Square holds daily flag raising and lowering ceremonies popular with mainland tourists.
Behind the Exhibition Centre, Central Plaza’s golden glow is unmissable and you can ascend to the 46th floor for good views over the harbor.
Causeway Bay
East along the tramlines from Wanchai, Hennessy Road becomes Yee Woo Street and you’ll approach Causeway Bay, which seems to be inaccurately named until you realize that this bustling district was under water until the 1950s!
While there’s plenty of eating and shopping to be done in Causeway Bay, along with a range of accommodation options, there is little to see. Down on the waterfront the Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter is full of yachts and sampans.
Nearby the Noon Day Gun still sounds daily in homage to bygone days. Victoria Park (see below) in the east also affords some respite from Causeway Bay’s hustle and bustle. |
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Sampan boats in Victoria Harbour
Farther out, the 200-year-old Tin Hau temple (daily 7 am-5 pm) by the MTR station of the same name (exit B) is also worth a look. The temple was built by a Hakka family who found a statue to Tin Hau among some rocks on the shore and so they erected a shelter to house it. Over time that became the temple you can see today.
Aside from these “sights,” activities focus on shopping and one of the best places to do this is Times Square, which is actually a couple of modern towers packed with shops and restaurants.
Victoria Park, Causeway Bay (daily 24 hours; free; Tin Hau MTR, Exit B). The green open spaces provided by Victoria Park are some of the largest in the city and it is a popular tai chi spot. There are a number of recreational facilities (including a public swimming pool and a boating lake).
On June4th every year, the park is transformed into a sea of candles in remembrance of the Tian’anmen Square Incident, testimony to Hong Kong’s relative freedom from mainland authority. If you’re visiting during Chinese New Year it’s worth paying a visit as the park hosts the annual flower fair.
Happy Valley, 2 Sports Road, HappyValley (www.hkjc.com; tram or Causeway Bay MTR). The colonial institution of Hong Kong’s first race track was established in 1846 when the land on which it now stands was just a mosquito-infested marsh.
Racing was a popular pastime for the British and, ever since its opening, HappyValley has generated huge revenue. It still remains one of the places to be seen. Racing season is from September to June and if you’re a racing enthusiast you may find the Hong Kong Racing Museum (Tuesday to Sunday 10 am-5 pm; free) of interest. See our Hong Kong Museum section.
Visiting:
Victoria Peak
Central, Admiralty & the Mid-Levels
South of the Island
Visiting Kowloon and the Harbour
Visiting the Outlying Islands: Lamma Island, Lantau, Cheung Chau Island
Visiting the New Territories(Part 1and 2)
Hong Kong Festivals
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