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Kowloon
Kowloon means Nine Dragons, a name that supposedly relates to the range of eight hills snaking around the north of the peninsula – the ninth dragon is in reverence to the emperor himself. While the south of the peninsula is dominated by the harbor and its manifold attractions, farther north you’ll find Kowloon Park, hidden old temples and lots of markets that offer both shopping and the chance for a taste of an older Hong Kong.
The Harbour
Hong Kong Harbour
Victoria Harbour, enjoyed from Kowloon, offers one of the world’s greatest cityscapes. Arresting by day, the view intensifies with the addition of neon at night, and becomes a blaze of lasers and light during the nightly 8 pm Symphony of Lights and at Christmas and New Year.
If you can tear your eyes away from the harbor view, looking inland you’ll see a number of significant buildings. Heading east from the Star Ferry Terminal, you’ll pass the Kowloon-Canton Railway Clock Tower, which was built in 1921 and is the only remaining relic of the old train station.
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Immediately to the east you’ll see the sweeping curves of the Hong Kong Cultural Center. However, despite its fantastic location, the Hong Kong Cultural Center appears a little drab in comparison with the architectural monuments that surround it and is considered by many to be a wasted plot of extremely valuable land.
This aside, its roofline and use of angles can provide some good photos, especially on blue-sky days.
Next is the Museum of Art, behind which sits the shiny white dome of the Space Museum. A little farther along the shoreline you’ll come to the Avenue of Stars (see below), which follows an elevated walkway out over the waters of the harbor.
Walking along the harbor’s edge and raised pathways is a popular evening pastime and you might also see impromptu plays or musical performances as well as tai chi and ballroom dancing.
If you want to get out onto the water, either take the Star Ferry or go on a harbor cruise, many of which leave from this vicinity. |
Hong Kong Cultural Center
Hong Kong Space Museum and Stanley Ho Theater, 10 Salisbury Road, Tsimshatsui; Mon, Wed, Thurs & Fri 1-9 pm, Sat & Sun 10 am-9 pm; HK$10; Tsimshatsui MTR, Exit F). This informative museum offers a number of interactive exhibits and is divided into two sections, with Space Science located on the ground floor and Astronomy on the first floor. See our Hong Kong Museum section.
The attached Stanley Ho Space Theater is more worthwhile and offers larger-than-life Omnimax movies covering a range of topics that change monthly. The permanent ‘Sky Show’ on the Hubble Space Telescope (daily 2:40 pm & 6:10 pm; HK$12-HK$32) takes you on a journey into outer space and will leave the kids wanting to become astronauts!
Avenue of Stars (Tsimshatsui MTR, Exit F). Acknowledging Hong Kong’s significant movie business, the Avenue of Stars includes paving stones, hand prints and a couple of statues paying tribute to the territory’s greatest stars. Although you may not recognize many of the names, ones to look out for include Jackie Chan’s handprints and a large bronze statue of Bruce Lee. Thus Hong Kong’s Avenue of Stars doesn’t really match up to the US original, but the elevated promenade affords great views across the harbor.
North from the Harbor
Set a little back from the harbor, Salisbury Road is home to one of Hong Kong’s most famous historic buildings, the Peninsula Hotel, which sits behind bubbling fountains and green Rolls Royces (the hotel has a fleet of them).
Immediately east of here, Nathan Road is Kowloon’s primary artery, running south-to-north all the way to the New Territories through some of Hong Kong’s busiest shopping districts. Heading north from the harbor along Nathan Road, you’ll pass the infamous Chungking Mansions on the right and the History Museum.
A few hundred yards farther on from Chungking Mansions, stretching north from westerly Haiphong Road, lies the green expanse of Kowloon Park. On the southeastern corner of the park, the re-built Kowloon Mosque was originally constructed by the British for its Indian troops stationed here and remains a hub of Islamic life in downtown Hong Kong, although access is denied to non-Muslims.
From the mosque, Nathan Road continues its shop-happy northward journey into Jordan, where you’ll find Temple Street Market, Yaumatei Market, the Jade Market and a Tin Hau Temple, all to the west.
From here on up, this part of town is all about markets and, progressing northwards through Yaumatei and into Kowloon’s northernmost district, Mongkok, you’ll come across the electronics market, Flower Market and the Bird Market, all to the east of Nathan Road.
Hong Kong History Museum, 100 Chatham Road (Wed-Mon 10 am-6 pm; HK$10; Tsimshatsui MTR, Exit B2, or Jordan MTR, Exit D). This is an easy place to while away a few hours with fascinating, well-designed displays that trace Hong Kong’s history from earliest times. See our Hong Kong Museum section.
♥ KowloonPark, 22 Austin Road, Kowloon (daily 6 am-12 pm; free except swimming pools; Tsimshatsui MTR, Exit B1). After the British gained Kowloon, they were quick to see the military advantage of this hilly location overlooking the harbor and established the Whitfield Barracks on the site of the current park.
It remained a military domain until 1971 when it was opened as a public park by the governor of the time,
Sir David Trench.
The HK$300 million cost of the transformation was
donated by the Royal Hong Kong Jockey Club and
the park has flourished as a haven from the hustle and bustle ever since.
More than just an open space, Kowloon Park is also a center of recreation, with excellent public facilities, and
if you’d like a swim and some sunbathing there are good indoor and outdoor pools, although the cheap price and central location mean that they can get very busy.
In the park you’ll find a pleasant fitness trail, eight fitness areas, a maze, a number of gardens (including a Chinese traditional garden and a sculpture garden) and a bird lake with aviary.
Bird-watching is popular here and, if you arrive at 7:30 am on a Friday, you’ll find a keen group who will help you understand some of the local species. |
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Kowloon Park
♥ Tin Hau Temple, Public Square Street, Kowloon (daily 8 am-5 pm; free; Yaumatei MTR, Exit C). This small temple, dedicated to Tin Hau, Goddess of the Sea, offers a quiet escape from the busy market area surrounding it. Inside, you’ll find giant incense coils hanging from the ceiling, which fill the small temple with smoke.
Despite its small size the temple is a popular place of worship and you should be careful not to offend with your photography. The temple is surrounded by a small square, often filled with crowds of old men playing intense games of Chinese chess and mah jong.
♥♥ Wong Tai Sin Temple (daily 7 am-5:30 pm; free; Wong Tai Sin MTR, Exit B). Although it’s actually in the New Territories, this striking temple is most easily accessed from Kowloon. Taoist, Buddhist and Confucian worshippers all come here to pray and it’s also a popular spot for divination.
If you’re interested in having your face or palm read (HK$100-200) you might even be able to find an English-speaking teller to decode your fate. To see the temple at its best, visit on the weekend, when you’ll be greeted by clouds of thick incense burning from the massive ceiling coils, and the clatter of bamboo pots filled with divination sticks as people keenly await their fortunes.
Visiting Hong Kong Island:
Visiting the Outlying Islands: Lamma Island, Lantau, Cheung Chau Island
Visiting the New Territories (Part 1 and 2)
Hong Kong Festivals
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