Hong Kong Adventures
Hong Kong is such a mix of old and new, rural and urban, land and water, that the adventure possibilities are seemingly limitless. Whether it’s the great outdoors or China’s grand culture that takes your fancy, you’ll find something to fit. There are harbor cruises, mountain hikes, tai chi sessions, swimming beaches, fengshui lessons – it’s just a case of choosing which is for you.
Hong Kong & Macau
In the Air
Helicopter Tours (www.heliservices.com.hk). If you really want to come to grips with Hong Kong, one of the best ways to do this is from the sky. From here, you’ll get the chance to view the numerous islands and peaks, the sheer scale of urbanization throughout the area and the heavy water traffic that passes through every day.
Bird Watching
Bird watching in Hong Kong is a popular pastime and yellow-browed warblers, blue magpies and fork-tailed sunbirds are all common sights. If you’re lucky, you may catch a glimpse of the striking yellow-crested cockatoo.
The Hong Kong Bird Watching Society (HKBWS) arranges free tours to learn more about local and migratory birds in the area. The two-hour tours operate at 8 am every Wednesday in Hong Kong Park and at 7:30 am on Fridays in Kowloon Park. They are led by local members of the Society and are well worth the early rise. The Society also arranges bird-watching trips farther afield. Check their website for more (www.hkbws.org.hk) or contact the tourist office.
Other areas of interest for bird lovers include the Wetlands Park, Kadoorie Farm and the many country parks in the New Territories. Mai Po Marshes are the winter resting ground for black-faced spoonbills and a host of other flora and fauna. The site is managed by the World Wide Fund for Nature and runs guided three hour tours of the reserve, although it is advised to book at least a month in advance due to limited numbers (www.wwf.org.hk). To get to the marshes, take bus #76K from Sheung Shui KCR.
On Foot
Many people’s first thought when you mention walking in Hong Kong are of battling your way through the crowds, with plenty of shopping and coffee breaks thrown in. But if you want strenuous mountain hikes or leisurely country strolls, you’ll find them in abundance too. It might seem impossible in downtown Hong Kong but you can be a long way from help in some parts of the territory and, if you’re heading into the
hills, make sure you take plenty of water, sunscreen, a hat and sturdy shoes.
If you want to go in a group, the tourist office runs hiking trips to Po Lin Monastery and the South Lantau Country Park. They also produce an excellent brochure entitled Hong Kong Walks, which details nine of the best hikes. For good hiking routes, practical information and a general hiker’s database, you could also check out www.hkcrystal.com/hiking.
♥♥♥ The Peak Circuit (1 hr)
To see a little more of the Peak, a walk around the upper rim takes an hour and affords views both north over Hong KongIsland across the harbor to Kowloon and south to Lamma. The walk starts from the Peak Tram terminal where you walk due west along Harlech Road until you reach Lugard Road. From here, Lugard Road runs along the northern edge of the Peak and returns to the tram terminal area, making for a short but excellent circuit. If you want to continue you could head up Mount Austin Road which leads to the top of the Peak. There you’ll find the Victoria Peak Garden which was once the governor’s residence.
Island & New Territories Hikes
Hong Kong has invested heavily in its tourist infrastructure and part of this is its extensive network of well-marked hiking trails. If the pace of the city is getting too much for you, even a half-day trip can reward you with a rejuvenating breath of fresh air. Below are a selection of favorite island and New Territory hikes, from hour-long strolls to the 60-mile MacLehose Trail. In addition to the walks listed below, Plover Cove Country Park offers a varied range of hiking options.
♥♥♥ Yung Shue Wan to Sok Kwu Wan on Lamma (1 hr)
One of my favorite afternoon trips in Hong Kong begins in Yung ShueWan, a 30-minute ferry journey from Central. Turn right from the port and stroll through the trendy little town, with its bars, cafés, hotels and seaside shops. You might want to pick up a sandwich and a drink here for your walk – try the Bookworm Café. At the end of the village you’ll find a small Tin Hau temple which is worth a quick side-trip before re-tracing your steps and turning uphill onto a paved trail. Ten minutes through banana palms and you’ll find yourself emerging out at Tai Wan To beach and, a little farther on, Hung Shing Ye beach, where you could stop for a swim. From the beach the path heads steeply up for 10 or 15 minutes to the full height of the island.
At the top there’s a pavilion, which makes for a good lunch stop with great views in both directions. The path then continues along the backbone of the island for 15 or 20 minutes before descending, at which point there’s another well-placed pavilion. From here you can see Sok Kwu Wan, where a fish dinner and the ferry home await. A little farther on you’ll see a sign for Lo So Shing beach diverting right from the main path. It’s only a few minutes walk down to the charming little beach and, after a hot hike, a cooling dip might be the perfect thing to really work up an appetite. There are also showers here if you want to freshen up for dinner.
Back on the main path it’s only 15 minutes to the quaint little fishing town of So Kwu Wan. This place is famous for its fish restaurants and is very popular in the evenings, particularly on the weekends. The last boat back doesn’t leave until 10:30 pm so you’ll have plenty of time to enjoy some great food and maybe a well-earned beer before the half-hour boat ride back to Central – just hope that the water isn’t too rough if you’ve had a lot to eat or drink! This route can also be done in reverse and there are good Western cafés (see p. 556) as well as fish restaurants in Yung Shue Wan or you could even choose to stay here (see Where to Stay, p. 550).
THE FANLAU TRAIL, LANTAU (5-6 HRS)
If you don’t have time for the Lantau Trail, the one-day Fanlau Trail offers some of the best hiking in Lantau. The trail starts at the Shek Pik reservoir and follows a flat cliff top path all the way around the western coast to Tai O, taking in dramatic ocean scenery and a number of beautiful beaches. Buses #1 and #2 from MuiWo run to Shek Pik and after the hike you can take #1 back to MuiWo for boats, or #11 to Tung Chung for the MTR.
♥♥ The Lantau Trail (44 miles)
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A great way to take in all the sights that Lantau Island has to offer is to spend a few days completing the Lantau Trail, a hike that circles the whole island.
The route is challenging, but offers jaw-dropping vistas over the area, particularly at sunrise and sunset.
The trail starts in Mui Wo in the east of Lantau and then loops around the island, crossing LantauPeak, Ngong Ping, Tai O and then down to Shek Pik before looping back to Mui Wo.
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Lantau trail
Some of the trail is particularly tough, so be prepared and take plenty of water with you. The trail is clearly marked the whole way round and can be shortened by taking buses or taxis for stretches or broken down into smaller sections for day-trips such as the Fanlau Trail. If you’re keen to complete the whole circuit, you’ll have to spend at least a night en route at the SG Davis Hostel. For more information see www.hkcrystal.com/hiking .
♥♥♥ The MacLehose Trail, Sai Kung (5 days)
This superb hike derives its name from a former governor of the colony, Sir Murray MacLehose, who was passionate about the area. It comprises of 60 miles of breathtaking hiking that passes through some of the region’s wildest and most rugged landscapes. Starting in Sai Kung, the trail runs from east to west, winding along the coastal scenery and then inland towards the mountains. The trail passes 20 of Hong Kong’s mountains (including Tai Mo Shan) before reaching the coast on the western side at Tuen Mun.
The route is divided into 10 sections, offering shorter walks although they can easily be combined for overnight hikes. The trail is also popular with charities, and there are annual sponsored walks that aim to complete the trail in one go, usually taking about 48 hours. If you’re keen to find out more about the route, then the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department website (www.afcd.gov.hk) offers up-to-date information on trails, along with practical advice about hiking in the area.
On Wheels
Hong Kong and Kowloon are best left to exploration on foot or by public transport, but out on the islands and in the New Territories you’ll find more scope for cycling, with a range of trails catering to all levels of skill and fitness, and there are even some that are suitable for families with young kids. Real mountain biking enthusiasts should contact the Hong Kong Mountain Biking Association (www.hkmba.org), who can provide detailed routes and maps, biking tips and advice.
♥ Cheung Chau
Cheung Chau is a great biking destination as paths are generally flat and clearly marked, making it popular with families. There are numerous shops renting bikes by the hour (HK$50) and you may get a discount if you’re renting for a half-day or more. Try Hop Cheung Bicycle Shop or Siu Kee Bicycle for reliable bikes.
A pleasant route to try starts by the ferry pier on Praya Street and heads south towards South Island, taking in the village and its fishing community en-route. You’ll go past Tung Wan Beach and onto Peak Road. Peak Road continues around the whole southern island, taking in a number of sea-facing cemeteries, Pak Tso Wan beach, Sai Wan (West Bay), the Tin Hau Temple and the Cheung Po Tsai Cave .
On the Green
Hong Kong has plenty of golfing opportunities and many of them are set amid stunning scenery. If you don’t have much time but want a quick swing, there are a number of driving ranges within the city itself; try the City Golf Club at 8 Wui Cheung Road in Kowloon (www.citygolfclub.com; HK$50 per half-hour) which has good facilities and is in a convenient location, right near Jordan MTR (Exit, C2). For golf courses, you should visit one of the public courses, unless you have the thousands of dollars required for private club membership. Many of the cheaper options are farther away in the New Territories, so expect to pay more downtown. Some to try are:
Discovery Bay Golf Course, Discovery Bay Golf Course Valley Road, Lantau. Non-members can play on Mondays, Tuesdays and Fridays for HK$1,400.
Jockey Club Kau Sai Chau, Sai Kung (www.kscgolf. com). The Jockey Club course is located on a private island just near Sai Kung, so you’ll have to take their private ferry from Sai Kung to Sai Kung Chau. For both courses you’ll need a handicap card. A round costs HK$400 on weekdays and HK$540 on weekends.
On Water
So much of Hong Kong is near water that it’s bound to play at least some part in your trip here, whether that’s a gentle harbor cruise, the exertion of paddling yourself around its islands, a bit of banana boating or just a plain old swim in the sea.
See here as for Harbor cruises and Dolphin Watching.
Watersports
Hong Kong’s beaches get busy on summer weekends and watersports are popular. From jet skiing to banana boating, water skiing to windsurfing, it’s all available at most major beaches throughout Hong Kong. Although aimed at local residents, if you’re an avid watersports fan and are in Hong Kong for a while, there are government-run watersports centers at five points around the territory, including both MainBeach and St. Stephen’s Beach in Stanley and at Tai Mei Tuk by the Plover Cove Reservoir in the NewTerritories. Prices are far cheaper at these centers than at private rental places and all activities are overseen by qualified experts. But in order to use their equipment you’ll need to take along ID, as well ascertification that you have attained a certain proficiency with the equipment you would like to rent (for more information check out www.lcsd.gov.hk). They all have windsurfs, kayaks and sailing dinghies for rent by the hour.
Gambling: The Races
Happy Valley and Sha Tin are the only places where it’s legal to gamble in Hong Kong and as a result they are enormously popular. More money is bet here on a single race than at many Western tracks in a month, and an estimated HK$91 billion is bet each year. The Chinese are renowned gamblers, sometimes winning big, but all too often losing everything but the shirt on their back. Despite the law prohibiting gambling in China and Hong Kong, it is rampant and can be seen at mah jong tables around the country. This predilection for gambling serves Macau well and its legal casinos are packed with visitors from Hong Kong, Taiwan and the mainland on weekends. The races themselves are much akin to those you’ll find around the world, and the excitement and tension in the air is tangible. The race season is from September to June and meets are usually on Wednesdays and weekends.
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