Adventures (part 2)
On Foot
Macau is small but diverse enough to allow even short walks to take in a range of scenery, though for wilder trails you’re better off going to Coloane. The tourist office’s Walking Tours by Day and Night details walks throughout Macau and is worth picking up. In addition to the options detailed here, a walk up to the Guia Fortress is worthwhile, as is a stroll around the edge of Sai Van Lake.
♥♥♥ Historic San Malo (1 hr)
This walk takes in a huge helping of Macau’s Portuguese past, starting with the grand plaza of Largo do Senado. Walk through the square, past the McDonald’s and up to the right. Head past the recently restored St. Dominic’s Church onto Rua de Sao, then bear left up the hill onto Rua da Palha which soon becomes Rua de Sao Paulo and leads to the towering façade of the Ruins of St. Paul’s. Here is a good spot for a drink and there’s a juice shop at the bottom of the steps, but make sure you get them to make it fresh for you.
From here you can climb up to the right to the Mount Fortress (daily 7 am-8 pm), which guards the hilltop and is home to the Macau Museum (Tues-Sun 10 am-6 pm). After visiting, return to the Ruins of St. Paul’s to continue the walk. Take the lane from the northwestern corner by the small temple of Na Tcha and an original section of wall, which leads down to Rua de Santo Antonio, lined with antique shops. Turn right up the hill and follow the road until you reach the church of St. Antony. You’ll see the entrance to Luis de Camoes Gardens up to the left.
Before you go up the hill, though, check out the Old Protestant Cemetery , just to the east, full of deceased voyagers from yesteryear. Luis de Camoes Gardens (daily 6 am-10 pm) offers a short, steep ascent through wonderful tropical foliage to the peaceful pavilions above, a world away from the busy streets not so far away. From here, a taxi, or bus #8A or #19 can take you back to the Largo do Senado.
♥♥ Churches & Temples
(45 min-1 hr one-way or 90 min- 2 hr circuit)
This short ramble takes in some of Macau’s finest churches, along with the charming A-Ma temple and nearby Maritime Museum. It also includes some good dinner options. Starting in Largo do Senado, cross Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro and walk south down Rua Dr. Souares. Bear left onto Calcada do Tronco Velho, at the end of which you’ll see St. Augustine’s Church. Here you’ll also find Sir Robert Ho Tung’s Library and the Dom Pedro V Theatre, the oldest European theater in China. To the left there’s a cobbled ramp leading onto Rua Central, which becomes Rua de Sao Lourenco; off to the right lies the grand St. Lawrence’s church (daily 10 am-4 pm). This road soon becomes Rua de Padre Antonio and leads into pretty Lilau Square. From here it’s just a short walk down Calcada de Barra to the picturesque A-Ma Temple and the Maritime Museum.
After visiting them you could enjoy a meal in one of the fine restaurants like A Lorcha or O Oporto Interior, both of which are only a few minutes walk up Rua do Almirante Sergio. You can end your walk with a taxi or bus #2 or #5 back to the Largo do Senado. But, if you’ve got the energy, you could continue north up Rua do Almirante Sergio and experience modern Macau without any of the glory. Car parts and shipping machinery outlets are interspersed with dried fish stalls, street canteens and tiny winding lanes crammed with ancient houses that are slowly decaying, their elderly residents sitting outside passing the time of day. Twenty minutes or so along this street (which becomes Rua das Lorchas) will bring you to the junction with Avenida Almeida de Ribeiro – turn right here and it’s only 10 minutes back to the Largo do Senado.
Coloane Walks
Coloane has a host of connected walking trails running between Seac Pai Van Park in the west and Hac Sa in the east. You can do the whole circuit or just short stretches. The walk detailed below offers a range of scenery and wildlife and is one of my favorites.
♥♥ Beaches, Mountains & Reservoir (1-3 hrs depending on which route you take). This short walk on Coloane Island takes in a reservoir, some hilly forest and beaches. If you come during the week when there are fewer visitors you might spot wildlife ranging from giant butterflies to snakes. The walk starts from the coastal road between Cheoc Van and Hac Sa, which can be reached by buses #15, #21A, #25 and #26A. Get off the bus by the large wooden arch marked Parque Naturel de Barragem de Hac Sa. Head up the steps and toward a circular yellow building with a soft drink machine. Bear left at the
building and up the steps.
Soon you’ll see the milky green waters of the reservoir and a path off to your left across the barrage. Don’t take this, but continue along the edge of the lake. Once you lose sight of the reservoir, the path divides. Turn left (signposted 1,100 m) rather than going straight ahead and a few minutes later you’ll come to a small, sturdy suspension bridge. Cross this and turn left. A little farther on there’s a place you can rent pedal-boats (Tues-Fri 2-6 pm, Sat 1-6 pm & Sun 11 am-6 pm). You’ll see a pavilion up to your right, which offers views over the reservoir. Turn right just past the pavilion and proceed up the steps. Ashort climb later you’ll find yourself on a yellow perched pavilion sitting atop a giant boulder with fine views over Hac Sa beach. It makes a great spot for a picnic.
You could turn around here, taking a shortcut across the barrage on your return, which would make for around an hour circuit. Or if you’ve still got some spring in your legs you could take the 450-m (1,475-ft) path uphill to the 65-foot A-Ma statue, from where you can connect to the trails of Seac Pai Van Park. Alternatively, if you’d like to close your hike with a swim and some fine food, proceed straight ahead from the yellow pavilion. Follow the main path and don’t take any of the side trails until you see a signpost marked Parque de Merenda de Cheoc Van leading down to the left. Take the steps steeply down for a few minutes and you’ll soon reach the road.
Across the road you’ll see a sign and steps heading to Pousada de Coloane where you could get a drink and meal before ordering a taxi home. You could also take a swim on pretty little Cheoc Van beach (p. 583). Or to take a bus straight back to the peninsula turn left from the park and cross the road – after a couple of minutes you’ll see a bus stop on your right where you can take buses #15, #21A, #25 or #26A. If you want to continue the hike, carry on walking left along the road past the wooden arch you started from until you reach the turn for Hac Sa beach off to your right. Head down to the beach and either take a bus once you are finished here (same bus numbers) or walk left all the way along the beach to the Westin Hotel where you could enjoy a drink with views over the South China Sea in the Porto Bar before ordering a taxi home.